A guy at work took my headphones because they were the kind that went with his Cadillac
My car key broke in half and there was wood inside so I was going to try to superglue it back together
There was a tricot EP I didn’t know existed but the shipping on it was $40
Madeleine L’Engle wrote a fantasy/Star Wars ripoff book trilogy but it had a really exact painting of Darth Vader on the back cover and he was in the story too, but completely removed from the context of Star Wars itself
This repair has been in the works for about two and a half years. It was stopped variously by lack of knowledge, lack of proper tools, and lack of time, but eventually repairs were completed and the game is fully functional.
When I started working on it, of course the first thing I had to do was replace the original AC plug end with one that hadn’t had its ground pin removed. Old arcade ops seem to have been very bad about removing them. After that, I also had to switch out the fuse block because the original was so corroded and soft, I’m sure it wouldn’t have done its job much longer.
I like Ben Heck’s idea for custom a AV switch, but the CBT3244 bus switch chips don’t have enough bandwidth for analog signals. Loud audio clips and bright video blanks out. I’ve just had to go back to manually plugging in one SCART cable at a time (everything is RGB now) unless I can find a method that allows this many inputs without losing quality. It seems like using a method designed more with these issues in mind is much more complicated and maybe out of my realm of expertise.
They’ve been a while coming but are finally here! I now sell replacement trays for TurboGrafx-16 and PC Engine games. These are designed to fit in a standard jewel case and allow you to store your games as you would in their original cases. You can even print art for the back to simulate the original spine sticker and fit it underneath the tray. Check them out in my eBay items for sale.
I have been working on a Wizard of Wor machine that wouldn’t start. The only thing I got was a vaguely green screen and a buzzing speaker. I began by removing the socketed chips one at a time and cleaning them with a high quality plastic eraser and a Dremel wire brush when the tarnish was too heavy. After this I sprayed Deoxit into all of the sockets and reseated the chips several times each.
I’ve been doing a lot of work recently getting a Mario Bros. arcade machine back into working shape. Pretty much everything that commonly goes wrong with this game had happened. The monitor’s capacitors were dying, the sound didn’t work, the internals were covered in a thick layer of black dust, the list goes on. Here is a rundown of my efforts.
The most noticeable problem was the washed-out picture, with bars of light across the screen whenever something was drawn. I picked up a capacitor kit from Ian Kellogg to replace them with. The monitor that comes standard on pretty much every Nintendo cab is a Sanyo 20-EZ. It has quite a few caps to replace. It’s probably not strictly necessary to replace them all, but with 30+ year old caps that have rubber seals, it’s definitely a good idea. The cap kit also comes with those necessary to rebuild the sound amplifier.
Something that happens a lot is that people either accidentally or ignorantly remove the grounding pin from their AC plugs. Since a lot of arcades in the 80s probably didn’t have wiring that was up to code, a lot of outlets just had 2 prongs. I’m sure many people didn’t understand the importance of grounding to keep from being shocked or overheating your equipment. I went and got a replacement plug for about $2.
New product alert! I finally had enough time to create a replacement AA battery cover for the fabled Super Nintendo accessory, the Super Scope. If you need a replacement battery cover, it’s available at my eBay store!
I’m always working on new 3D printed replacement parts for game systems and accessories. Let me know what parts you’re still looking for!